Rosie Corriette

Notes from a retired blogger

Tag: travel

  • Cornwall by Train

    Cornwall by Train

    Can you realistically explore one of the most remote counties in England by rail? That’s something we set out to do on our recent trip to Cornwall; I say we but actually The Boyfriend is rather well versed in rail travel and I’m a bit of a Johnny come lately (barring the university commute of 15 years ago). Ordinarily it would be obvious to me to hire a car, break the journey up and explore our destination via four wheels.

    First up I need to be completely honest and say that I did not have a hand at all in the itinerary, I left that in the capable hands of him –  he planned every train, every move, every stop, every walk it was an absolute delight not to have to think about any of our travel plans.

    railway tracks overlooking coastal wash

    To give you an idea of what Cornwall by train looked like for us I’ve included our itinerary below; obviously it’s horses for courses or trains for tracks (I’m here all week!)  but it gives you a general idea of how you can move around really easily and in a really adaptable way.

     

    Monday

    London Paddington – Dawlish

    Dawlish – Hayle (where we stayed)

    Tuesday

    Hayle – St Erth

    St Erth – Carbis Bay

    St Ives – Lelant

    St Erth – Penzance

    Penzance – Hayle

    Wednesday

    Hayle – Liskeard

    Coombe Junction Halt* – Looe

    Looe – Liskeard

    Liskeard – Exeter

    Thursday

    Exeter – London Paddington

    *We all know just how excited I was to catch a train from Coombe Junction Halt.

    As you can see there are a number of geographical gaps in our train travel and that’s because we trained, we walked, we sat, we pub-ed, we relaxed. I hadn’t thought that train travel could be part of a leisure journey, viewing it instead as a necessary when getting from A to B – this trip taught me that it’s about the journey as much as it is the destination.

    GWR train on track next to Cornish coast

    It would be remiss of me to not address the cost of train travel. Tickets can vary vastly in price depending on when you book them and when you travel; one way of approaching this is to reframe the cost: build it into part of the experience – obviously that’s not appropriate for everybody but in this case we opted to incorporate a lunch on the way down and a night in Exeter on the way back. For our time in Cornwall, the Cornwall Ranger is a ticket that is perfect for exploring the county, for less than £14 a day you can travel unlimited (off-peak) within Cornwall including to and from Plymouth.

    Train travel is experiencing somewhat of a resurgence hopping back to a bygone era of slower times, of simpler times, perhaps of times when we can pause lean our head on the window and just lose ourselves in the scenery as we hurtle past at what feels like 1000 miles an hour but is more likely 110 miles an hour. It’s the reassuring whir of the wheels on the tracks, the rhythmic lulling as you relinquish all responsibilities – it’s like being a child again, whilst all very grown up… a very welcome feeling.

    Interior shot of train and man with countryside

    However is Cornwall by train actually practical? I will admit coming as the woman who has flown to Scotland twice I was a little bit more than sceptical: would I lose all sentient feeling in my lower body before we made it over The Royal Albert Bridge as we crossed the River Tamar into Cornwall? I was surprised at the real connectivity in Cornwall, both the high speed line and the smaller coastal lines. It made getting round really easy. Over the three days, we encountered minimal (think a few minutes) delays and only one cancellation and that was on the main line, which was easily made up with a train behind. I also came back from what was a jam packed trip feeling rested – I have to attribute a large portion of that to not spending hours driving; our getaway began as we pulled out of London Paddington – not something you could say if you were queuing to join the M25.

    Four days door to door from London to Cornwall, back again and everywhere wonderful in between saw us travel 625 miles by rail.

    railway track from a wooden platform bridge

    What would I change? Next time I’d love to travel down on the Night Riviera Sleeper service, a nightly service between London and Penzance (and reverse) where you can book a cabin whilst combining travel and hotel in one, waking up refreshed in Cornwall ready to explore. It sounds like so much fun (I mean who wouldn’t want to go to sleep in one place and wake up somewhere else) and that really should be at the forefront of your choices when it comes to travel and trips.

    Will I be back to Cornwall? Yes. Will I do Cornwall by train again? Absolutely… because there will always be more to see and do in Cornwall, you’ll never ‘complete’ it and that’s the beauty.

  • The City Gate Hotel Exeter | Review

    The City Gate Hotel Exeter | Review

    On our way down to Cornwall we did the journey in one however on the way back we decided to break it with a night in Exeter. Having previously done this I know that it can really extend that feeling of a mini break it’s about squeezing that time away from home and Exeter is a great pitstop – though not to be overlooked as a destination itself. Our hotel for the night was The City Gate Hotel, less than a 10 minute stroll from Exeter Central station.

    The welcome homemade brownies and glass of port were a lovely touch (and ridiculously tasty) although I’m now on the hunt for a good port, as it seems just one sip was enough for me to develop a taste!

    Glass lamp filled with wool balls on bedside table

    We stayed in room number one – a boutique double – which is right by the staircase, we were concerned it might be noisy however it was exceptionally quiet, we had a beautiful view of the street and the hill ahead; really quite picturesque with both of us getting a great night’s sleep which was perfect for an early start as we headed back to London.

    large bed with yellow bedspread in teal room with wooden accent wall

    The king size bed was supremely comfortable, something I don’t say lightly – a hotel bed has to work hard for my praise and this one met the mark.

    The bathroom had a double shower, that was very powerful and very hot; most welcome after walking over twenty five miles the over the past two days during our adventures in Cornwall.

    white meetro tiled shower room with basin and round mirror

    Breakfast wasn’t included in our booking but is served from 7am each morning downstairs. Top tip: it does seem initially quite expensive but if you order your dishes individually it’s not as expensive as advertised. Service was speedy especially once we said we had a train to catch – we had a breakfast roll and French toast, no photos as we were really keen to ensure we didn’t miss our train, but take it from me: they were both delicious.

    The City Gate Hotel whilst part of the Young‘s group (a brand I really like however like all brands it takes effort to not feel cookie cutter in it’s offering) feels personable and small enough to deliver that ‘just one night getaway’ feeling.

    And Exeter even though I say it has more to offer than a pitstop onto destinations further afield or return home that’s exactly how I treated the city on my last two encounters so here’s me insuring the next time I visit I stay more than just one night.

  • Ely Cathedral

    Ely Cathedral

    The perfect trip from Cambridge, we spent the afternoon in Ely – with no visit to the Cathedral city complete without visiting the gothically imposing Ely Cathedral that rises from the surrounding fens, perched on the hill of Ely.

    Exterior upshot of medieval cathedral

    Ely Cathedral is breathtaking, rendering visitors speechless at it’s scale and intricacy. I have a thing for cathedrals and religious architecture – I think it’s the complexity and nuance of the messaging contained often within what could be mundane structures: windows, pillars etc. The present Cathedral dates back to 1083, with an Abbey church originally being built on the site as early as 672AD.

    Upshot of intricately decorated octagon and lantern ceiling of Ely Cathedral

    Ely Cathedral is open daily (take care to note when events and services are on and be respectful) – as it was a breezy and damp Friday afternoon in March we found the Cathedral quiet with no wait to enter, however it is advised to prebook your tickets.

    Friday afternoons are organ practice so whilst (beautifully) noisy at times we were treated to the most delightful sounds as we wandered round. The cathedral unlike may of its’s counterparts in bigger cities isn’t full of crowds, meaning your visit is leisurely and let’s face it: much more enjoyable.

    colourful stained glass window depicting Noah's Ark

    marble statue of a man laid on his side in front of stain glass windows

    Self-styled as a medieval engineering masterpiece, the description is perhaps the best that could be said about Ely Cathedral – if you can look past the stained glass windows that are some of the best examples (from the Victorian period) with immense intricacy, the marble carvings that are more lifelike than any selfie could every hope to be – what you see is an engineering feat that is magnificent both on a level of scale and complexity. The nave is, well I’ll leave the words to you…

    Up shot of a nave of a cathedral

    As always I’m fascinated by graffiti, not the kind you see tagged on the side of a bus stop but the worn away type -medieval in this instance – that tells a story of the people who lived our their lives within the cathedral.

    Stone slab with medieval graffiti

    This lesser known Cathedral may be off the beaten track but is no less when it comes to beauty and awe. A truly worthwhile addition to a visit to Cambridgeshire and one definitely not to be overlooked. 

    Tickets and tours can been be booked online ahead of your visit. 

  • 24 Hours in Cambridge

    24 Hours in Cambridge

    Fancy a night away? Four words that are sure to bring a smile to my face. A few weeks ago that’s exactly what happened and an hour later we were on the train pulling out of London with countryside soon zipping past on our way to Cambridge. No plans, no expectations – I didn’t even know where we were staying – a spontaneous city break.

    upshot of entrance to Kings College University of Cambridge

    Sleep

    Last minute hotel bookings can be a little bit like running the sleep gauntlet but The Gonville was a great find and somewhere I don’t doubt we will return to. A boutique hotel in the truest sense of the word, it’s independence is obvious – and rightly so – from the moment of check in. 

    Outdoor hotel sign of The Gonville Cambridge - gold letting on black

    light blue sofa and armchair in hotel lobby with chandelier

    The digital in-room concierge (via iPad) is a an example of how they’ve the attentive without being intrusive service point just right. We happened to make use of it during the night and were pleasantly surprised that a digital request made at midnight was followed up by a member of staff within minutes.

    We stayed in a standard room with a bath which was perfect for a short stay – with all the amenities you’d expect. 

    bed with grey linen

    Our room overlooked Parker’s Piece, a beautiful open space history – regarded as the birthplace of modern football – for the ‘Cambridge rules’ drawn up at Parker’s Piece were used as the basis for the newly formed Football Association’s rules in 1863.

    Open green space with georgina buildings in the distance

    A regret was running out of time to try the residents bar, which looked fantastic – apparently a must try for whisky lovers, however a long day had us heading straight up to our room when we returned after dinner.

    silver Bentley car outside a hotel entrance

    Breakfast was reassuringly good – a served hot option in a addition to a light self-serve continental option. we both chose the eggs royale, our go to and weren’t disappointed.  

    eggs royale on a white plate

    Drink

    The Lab is most definitely a high-glamour octave cocktail bar but it is by no means style over substance,  the menu is seriously extensive. In the interests of being thorough I opted for a low caffeine option espresso martini something it’s really hard to find and was very welcome and then for my second choice I went for a Sex on the Bench fun to order, a real treat to be served and just as good to drink. A Great destination in the evening be it for a couple as we were or for a big group. 

    two cocktails on a black table

    cocktail with sparkler

    Oh and the funnest toilets for an obligatory mirror selfie…

    Woman holding a phone talking a photo in a mirror

     

    Eat

    Tasked with picking somewhere for dinner (it felt weird that this was the only decision required of me for the trip, can’t lie I could get used to it) I googled ‘best place for dinner in Cambridge’ and The Pint Shop came up almost top and for good reason. A great (take it from the boyfriend) selection of real ales on offer downstairs with a what can only be described as an absolute gem of a restaurant over the two floors above. The food has nothing to do with pints instead think sophisticated well married flavours centred round chargrilled offerings of eastern and middle eastern fusion food. We both had a kebab, the turmeric chicken and deep fried pork belly, both were incredible yet in true Rosie fashion I had plate envy when I saw the burger go past; such is The Pint Shop’s ability to elevate – without overworking – some of the most basic of dishes into the truly sublime flavour combinations. An absolute must if you visit Cambridge. 

    chicken open kebab

    Explore

    Cambridge is alive with history and culture; one one of those compact cities that you will leave with neck-ache from constantly looking up but you’ll be well rewarded.

    See view of narrow road in Cambridge

    Bicycle hire is the ‘thing’ but if like me you’re more suited to using your feet, you won’t be disadvantaged. The various colleges are closed to visitors in the daytime during the week, something to bear in mind when planning your trip – however the kerbside architecture is beautiful and consuming enough.

    Ukraine flag flying from Corpus Christi College University of Cambridge

    Cambridge city centre is compact, friendly and easy to navigate. There is so much to do but equally you can spend an entire trip doing absolutely nothing. We found it an easy walk from the station to our hotel, and into the city centre – but if it’s  bit much or your bags are bit heavy there’s plenty of taxis as you come out of the station.

    We ventured to Ely which is about 15 minutes by train from Cambridge and the perfect place for an afternoon exploring – full write up on our afternoon coming soon; highly recommend carving out a few hours for the off the beaten track cathedral city. 

    This trip to Cambridge was an adult one yet I can easily see myself returning in the summer with Boo; its ease of access from London, its accessibility by foot and general friendliness just makes it the perfect destination for families too. 

    Open doorway to medieval grassed courtyard

    Whilst a punt wasn’t on the cards for us (boaters raised to anyone who decides to punt themselves it looks absolutely exhausting!) although those braver than us were happy to take their chances on the cold March River Cam we instead opted for a few drinks by the river.

    punting boats moored by the side of the river Cam

    24 hours in Cambridge was enough, but not in equal measures – the sign of a great city break. 

    Sometimes last minute plans, relying on google and jumping on a train really are the perfect travel tonic.

  • UK City Breaks – Have I Been Missing Out?

    UK City Breaks – Have I Been Missing Out?

    I like to think of myself as an early adopter, apart from when it’s trendy. Make something trendy and suddenly I’m like a stubborn mule: looking at you UK city breaks. International travel restrictions and all the uncertainty that comes with living and attempting to travel during a global pandemic has seen an exponential (is this not the word to linger from 2020) rise in the staycation – the search term ‘staycation’ increased by 511% in July 2020 alone (Pi-Diametrics July 2020). 

    Love it or hate it the word staycation appears is here to stay. Once seen as a poor substitution for hopping on a plane to the continent, a UK city break has enjoyed monopolising the travel market for the past couple of years; however as international travel is tentatively becoming easier, UK destinations will have to shake their money makers that bit harder in order to compete with their international counterparts.

    But do they have anything to worry about? I’ve been guilty in the past of dismissing UK destinations in favour of heading abroad, and whilst I’m not about to turn my back on jumping on a plane; does a change in pace of travelling have me missing the wood for the trees?

    I’m surprisingly untravelled when it comes to sophisticated UK city breaks – I say sophisticated because I’m not sure visiting friends while at university and sampling the delights of student nights counts! The familiarity of some cities will be welcome but I’m also looking forward to discovering completely new destinations. 

    The undeniable and never ceasing excitement of a hotel breakfast (I refuse to believe I will ever tire of this underrated pleasure of life) and a morning of exploring that lays ahead, all while you have the customary cup of tea in bed. Just me?

    Being London based, I’m particularly spoilt as the Capital’s connectivity, in particular the rail network means city breaks can be as short as one night – or as long as you wish to explore – and still pack a punch when it comes to an itinerary. Whilst I may be taking advantage of the transport to leave London for a few days, I’m not turning my back on the Capital entirely: I still enjoy getting lost in the city I call home, perhaps a micro-staycation without having to leave the TFL network is on the cards too?

    View of southbank from North of the river Thames

    And as much as I love an airport (there’s just something about them) you can’t deny the lure of turning up minutes before a train’s departure as opposed to the hours needed for air travel.

    So yes, I’m late to the UK city break game, but maybe being achingly cool isn’t such a bad thing after all.